Iโm aware, writing this, how much the hospitality industry is struggling in this current economic climate (as indeed many industries, let alone individuals, are) โ that the regular closure of favourite old eating haunts, supposedly flourishing establishments, entire empires of restaurants, is not letting up. And maybe this current fad for insisting on shared plates arriving higgledy-piggledy is one way that eateries are able to sustainably survive. However, I donโt believe this. Hospitality is all about being hospitable, hosting people, submitting to their dining desires, providing a well-rounded experience of that trilogy of good food, good service, good atmosphere โ with, as I recall from my restaurant reviewing days, that little bit of magic thrown in.
Loading
Our recent meal, forewarned as we were about dishes arriving at differing times, could have nearly been that well-rounded experience โ location superb; atmosphere buzzy but intimate; food mostly excellent โ except that it wasnโt. Three out of four main dishes arrived at the same time but as our โserverโ had confused one of the orders, the fourth came out 15 minutes later, shortly after our three sides โ all, obediently, to be shared โ had. Our polite requests for the fourth meal were met with barely concealed displeasure, and by the time we were ready for our bill โ definitely not sticking around for dessert, thank you very much โ our server had mysteriously dematerialised.
The thing is, itโs the restaurant that ultimately loses out: we simply wonโt go back. If restaurants wish to stay in business, they could do worse than remember that they are there for their customers, not the other way around.
Victoria Cosford is a former Good Food Guide reviewer, a food writer, a long-time contributor to the Byron Shire Echo and author of gastro-memoir Amore & Amaretti: A Tale of Love and Food in Tuscany.
About The Author
